Building the Windshield

The windshield hasn’t been too bad. I’m at the point where everything is a one-off but that’s OK…because I kind of like building this boat.

Here’s the objective – as you can see geometry is important here (thank you Mr. Hull!)

Windshield plan

The first step was building the windshield knee. I glued up some leftover face-grain planking, planed it to 1 3/4″ thickness and then cut a shape that looked like the plans. I then rounded over the edges. The most important part was getting the angle right, about 30 degrees, and then matching the bottom so that it was flush against the deck.

Windshield knee, post shaping

After attaching the knee, I cut and attached the centerpost and bottom runners. I cut a 15 degree angle fore to aft on the centerpost outer face, as well as routing a 1/4″ groove about 1/2″ deep. This centerpost groove, as well as an accompanying one in the runners, will receive the acrylic windshield. The angles were also 15 degrees fore to aft. The most important step here was to make sure I was properly aligned with the boat’s centerline on both the windshield knee and the knee-to-centerpost attachment point

Centerpost attached to windshield knee, with bottom runners dry fit. The smaller knee is for the side posts.

Next step was to attach the side posts and align with the bottom runners. I wanted them to be the same distance and same angle from the centerpost. They also got 1/4″ routing grooves that were 1/2″ deep, for the side windshields as well as for the main windshield. I had a scrap piece of acrylic that I laid in the grooves to make sure everything lined up.

Center and side posts attached, with bottom runners.

I then finished the tops and slid in the acrylic. I thought an angled look would be better for the side windshields but quickly changed my mind upon seeing it from a distance.

Windshield dry fit, first attempt

I then decided to steam two top runners for the side windshields. I routed a groove and then steam bent them to the same shape. After they dried, I attached them, which involved some angled cut adjustments to the bottom runners along the gunwales.

Windshield dry fit, final attempt. I like the side windshields much better this way than angled.

My biggest lesson on this part of the build was my choice of sealant. I used a flexible, clear silicon for the acrylic to nest in, which would’ve been OK if it wasn’t so tacky and didn’t smear everywhere. But I was able to get most of the smearing off with mineral spirits and a toothbrush. It took a while though.

Next step is to epoxy the windshield; the epoxy coat will lock in the shape and fill any voids. Forward progress!

Quarterknees, Foredeck, Rub rail, Sheer clamp shaping and a Mascot

It’s been a while since the last update…I’m pushing to have her in the water by summer 2021. So here goes…

I traced out both quarterknee borders and then glued up 3 sections of 3/4″ marine ply. I then cut them and dry fit them for installation in the motor well – these will eventually be covered by a 1/4″ decorative overlay but are important for hull stability and protecting the aft section from motor vibrations. I attached them with 5200 and screws. I used 5200 for its flexing properties.

Quarterknees, glued and screwed.

Next up was the foredeck. This is the area in front of the windshield that I plan to lounge around on when at anchor in shallow water near home. I used a base of 1/2″ plywood and then put on alternating strips of 5 1/2″ ash and 1/4″ douglas fir; the rest of the boat is ash and dfir, so this matches up. I attached the plywood to angled deck beams with screws and 5200, cut off the overhang and then fiberglassed over the ash/dfir strips.

Foredeck 1/2″ plywood base. Deck beams are under the ply; ply is marked so I’ll know where to drill for the screws.

Alternating ash and dfir strips on the foredeck. They are attached to the plywood with epoxy and clamped down with excess wood pieces in this pic.

Foredeck, after all of the overhang was cut away. Rub rail will cover up the seam.

Foredeck post fiberglass

Next step was to install a rub rail. This was harder than I thought, mostly due to the type of wood (ash) and its dimensions. It took a lot to get the 2 1/4″ wide, 3/4″ ash up flush against the sheer. It would’ve been better to use a wood cut with less mass, or maybe to steam the ash and then install. Either would’ve made these pieces easier to pull in and secure.

Ash rub rail with dfir plugs. I attached the rail with thickened epoxy and screws. I put coarse salt in the epoxy to keep the rails from slipping.

Attached section 1 of the starboard rub rail. Lots of clamps and screws to pull it in to the sheer.

Like the foredeck, I used 1/4″ ash on top of the sheer clamps. The angle of this wood overlay changes as you move down the length of the boat, so there was anywhere from 1/2″ to 2″ of overhang to cut off at various places, but the important thing was that I was able to match up the grain.

Sheer clamp rough cut an attachment. Able to match up the grain patterns pretty well.

Sanded sheer clamps, both sides.

Routing a smooth, clean surface on the sheer clamp. I screwed in a batten in order to keep a straight cut.

Finally, I made a couple of mascots of the boat. It was a fun little project and I was able to give one to my father as a Christmas present, which he got a kick out of. I got the idea from this website. Basically just a block of leftover dfir that I glued a template onto, cut to shape with a bandsaw, and then sanded until my fingers bled…but it was fun.

Mascot #1 and his big brother.

I’m currently in the middle of the windshield build. More to come on that. Forward progress!