I cut off the protuding plank ends near the stem and planed them all to the same length. I also made their widths flush with the inner stem. This was because I decided to change things up and use ash for the outer stem and other exterior hull accents, like the spray rails and guards; plus I’m overlaying 1/4″ ash planks on the transom. I just think it will look better having white ash for the trim and light brown d-fir for the primary color. So the dfir outer stem that I’d laminated and had ready to go will now be used for something else.
Planking trimmed flush to the inner stem. Ready for the outer stem, which will basically be fitted right on top and then planed similar to the pic below.
My concept for the outer stem. This is from the Reedville boat show this past weekend. This particular outer stem was capped over the inner stem…it matches the angles at which planks land and looks good too.
As I was roughing out timber #10 I found a knot in a prime spot for torsion, so I decided to take it out. The structural members and hull will constantly be twisting and flexing while on the water, so given that this knot could basically crumble if left in – which could cause timber 10 to split and put undue stress on the ribs and hull – I decided to take it out and put in an oak dowel piece.
Knot in the mating surface between timber #10 and the keelson
Drill the knot out with a forstner bit
Put in an oak dowel and some glue until bottomed out.
Cut off at the surface. Proceed with finishing sanding and fitting up. It’s best to align the grain patterns though.
One of the tricks I’ve learned for drilling straight holes through an 8″ floor timber piece is to lock in alignment of the drill bit with the plane you want it to drill through. My 5/16″ bit is about 12″ long, so it can drift. When that happens and my hole is way off, I’ve wasted all that time finding the timber shape, roughing it out, etc. So I developed the little jig below to keep things lined up. Since this timber is bolted to the keelson, a true-center hole also means the keelson hole will be drilled accurately too.
As long as the drill bit stays on the centerline, in the groove right under the hole, and flat against the wood guide, the bit will come out on center.
Another interesting thing I got from Reedville was the use of a long threaded rod for deck eyelets and lifting rings. These eyelets and rings are used to haul the boat out of the water and onto the trailer, or to turn the boat over. That’s a lot of stress that shouldn’t be concentrated. In other words, you really should spread it out as much as possible. This rod connects to the floor timber, which of course connects to the ribs, planking and keelson. I also like the idea of the knee behind the inner stem, which I plan to use.
A wooden knee supporting the inner stem…plus a threaded rod from the a lifting ring on the deck, going all the way down to the timber. Both the knee and rod give significant strength to the boat when being pulled out of the water onto the trailer.
Finding the shape of Timber #11. Keeping it simple with a glue gun and wood tabs. I’ll then transfer the shape to a 2x8x8 resin’ed pine board (2″ x 8″ x 8′) and cut out.
I’m almost out of room for working on the floor timbers, at least until I flip the boat. I just can’t fit in the forward end of the boat with the moulds still there….but I also need to get all of the timber bolts through the keelson, mated up and epoxied before I can put on the keel. So I’ll have to figure that out.
I can see the exterior hull getting done and the boat flipped sometime in the next few months. Forward progress!